The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths

Dine Jewelry

Across the southwest silver and turquoise jewelry can be seen on women and men alike. This jewelry whether real or costume is based on various styles of Native American Indian jewelry. Most commonly the jewelry follows a style common to the Navajo or Dine style of jewelry. In the early 1800’s the Dine learned silversmithing from the Spaniards. Silverwork combined with turquoise stones created a unique and beautiful style of jewelry. Following is a list of books about American Indian Jewelry along with websites that have some information.

Mount Taylor gave us turquoise to honor all men,

thus we wear turquoise to honor our brothers,

we wear turquoise to honor our sons,

we wear turquoise to honor our fathers.

Because of Tsoo dził, we do this.

Luci Tapahonso

Excerpted from This is How They Were Placed for Us

from Blue Horses Rush In

Books

The Beauty of Navajo Jewelry

Theda Bassam

Photography by GeneBalzar

This is a collection of gorgeous photographs showing Navajo jewelry of many eras, past and present. In the Introduction, is is stated that "Most Navajo jewelry is still made in the traditional and classic way. However, some artists are changing styles, forging new ideas and techniques, using inlay of precious and semiprecious stones, channel work, inlay, and overlay. In addition, the sophisticated use of gold and diamonds has transformed jewelry making from craft to art. The versatility and artistry of Navajo jewelry knows no bounds.

Found at http://www.barbed-wire.net/purple/BeautyNavajoJewelry.html

Blue Gold the Turquoise Story

Broman

Information about turquoise, the locations where it is found and its use in jewelry with many American Indian examples shown in black/white & color photos, the majority of the items depicted are contemporary with the publication date of this book, recommended reading list, and index.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Encyclopedia of Native American Jewelry: A Guide to History, People, and Terms

Paula Baxter and Allison Bird-Romero

The bonanza years of Native American jewelry may not be over, with its praises being sung by such recent publications as the St. James Guide to Native North American Artists (LJ 12/97) and Lois Dubin's very fine North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment (LJ 8/99). This encyclopedia is intended for ready reference and probably won't appeal to those wanting detailed tribal history, lush color photos, or how-to instructions. But for a quick definition of "heishi" or "sodalite," to find which tribe Charles Loloma belonged to, or to get an overview of Iroquois jewelry, it will suffice. A lengthy introduction gives a basic history and basis for design. Hundreds of artists receive brief entries, as do stones, methods, and tribes; readers will also find maps, guides to selected topics, collections and exhibitions, and the appropriate care of jewelry; and artist and subject indexes. Some entries give short shrift to important points, e.g., wampum was made into the late 1800s and largely by white craftspeople, notably the Campbell family, for sale to Indians, and gorgets were not an Indian invention but were adapted from the neckpiece of English armor. TradersDa very important crewDare mentioned mostly by last names only, while some tribes, like the Cherokee, or noted families, like the Clarks, are not given their own entry at all. The emphasis is largely on Southwestern jewelry, and most of the illustrations are of Southwestern work. Still, to fill a void in a larger art or Native American collection or where there is interest, this is certainly a reasonable purchase.

From www.amazon.com

Enduring Traditions: Art of the Navajo

Jerry & Lois Jacka

This book is Jerry and Lois Jacka's latest effort presenting modern day Navajo pottery, jewelry, sculpture, rugs, paintings, sandpaintings, and baskets that are strinkingly individual, yet firmly grounded in tradition. With more than 200 color photographs, a historical introduction by Barton Wright, and a sensitive, engaging text, Enduring Traditions lets 194 of the best Navajo artists working today speak clearly through their words and work.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references2.html

Field Guide to Southwest Indian Arts and Crafts

Susanne Page & Jake Page

A comprehensive guide to identifying and understanding Southwest Indian jewelry, pottery, basketry, weaving, and carvings

The Field Guide to Southwest Indian Arts and Crafts includes descriptive captions for 210 color and 50 black-and-white photographs - clear and compelling explanations of centuries-old techniques The featured work of more than two hundred leading Southwest Indian artisans, information on visiting the reservations, and cultural histories of more than thirty tribes, including the Navajo, Hopi, Zuni, and Pueblo

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references5.html

Hallmarks of the Southwest

Barton Wright

American Southwest Indian artists working in metal, clay, wood, textiles, and paint have proudly left their individual hallmarks on their work-and until now there has not been a comprehensive source for identifying the marks. Barton Wright, the pre-eminent historian, curator, and proponent of these native crafts-people, has filled that void by collecting and organizing these hallmarks into a useful book. Compiled over many years of work with the craftspeople, and with the cooperation of one of their main organizing bodies, the Indian Arts and Crafts Association, Mr. Wright has with this book both made a useful tool for identification and left an important record of the work of these talented people. The information is alphabetically arranged with important personal data, tribal affiliation, working dates, materials used, and facsimiles of their marks.

Indian Jewelry Fact & Fantasy

Marsha Mayer Lund

This is a good reference for those interested in evaluating American Indian jewelry as it discusses actual methods of manufacture by American Indian silversmiths and machine-made imports and fakes, discusses styles of Navajo, Zuni and Hopi jewelry, turquoise found in old jewelry as well as modern stabilized and treated stones, evolution in styles of ornament, importance (or lack of) of a signature, liquid silver, signs of wear & age present in old silver and the changes in color that can occur in old turquoise, etc, black/white photos & line drawings plus 14 color plates, glossary, bibliography, no index.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Indian Jewelry of the American Southwest

Willaim A. Turnbaugh & Sarah Peabody Turnbaugh

More than 125 vivid color photographs display Indian-made wrought silver, turquoise, shell and coral jewelry brought together from the American Southwest's bright deserts, red canyon and timeless pueblos. The authors explore the diversity of this hand-crafted jewelry from historic collections as well as those available today on reservations and in shops and galleries. They explain the heritage conveyed by these distinctive products of Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, and Rio Grande Pueblo artisans.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references4.html

Indian Jewelry of the Prehistoric Southwest

Jerry D. Jacka

Discusses and illustrates the early jewelry made by various tribes including the Hohokam and the Anasazi, materials used include turquoise, shell, jet and argillite, includes small figure carvings as well as beads, bracelets and pendants, full color photos, no index, values not included.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Indian Silver Jewelry of the Southwest, 1868 – 1930

Larry Frank & Millard J. II Holbrook

This splendidly illustrated volume celebrates the historic silver and turquoise jewelry of the Navajo and Pueblo Indians. A classic, it presents over 300 superb objects that are usually hidden from view in museum storerooms and private collections across the United States.

Larry Frank discusses the history of this jewelry from 1868, when the Navajos were restored to their homeland, to 1930, when tourist demand and mass production ended the innovative first phase of the craft.

Indian Silver Jewelry contains 253 close-up photographs, 52 of them in color, of conchas, necklaces, bracelets, rings, hair ornaments, bridles, and other pieces as well as rare photographs of Indians wearing jewelry. The detailed captions invite the readers to look, compare, and discover for themselves the extraordinary beauty and vitality of Southwest Indian silver jewelry.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references4.html

Indian Silver: Navajo and Pueblo Jewelers

Margery Bedinger

Discusses the metalwork of the Southwestern Indians from the days of Spanish exploration to the present day silver craft of the Navajos and Pueblos, also includes brief histories of the metalwork by other tribes of the southwest, 155 black/white photos & drawings plus 9 color plates, items depicted include buckles, bracelets, rings, necklaces, pins, concha belts, etc, includes turquoise jewelry, bibliography, index, values not included.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Indian Silverwork of the Southwest Vol. 1

Mera

Pictorial presentation of the evolution of Southwestern Indian silverwork from the early simple forms through the 1930's, includes, bridles, bracelets, wrist guards, pendants, conchas, buckles, dress ornaments, rings, necklaces and silver mounted pouches, index.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Indian Silverwork of the Southwest Vol 2

King

This is the companion volume to Mera's "Indian Silverwork of the Southwest", surveys the forms, techniques & motifs that have developed from 1941 to 1975, extensive text supported by 300+ black/white photos, discusses treated & untreated turquoise, includes beads, belts, bracelets, crosses, necklaces, pins, rings, etc, with values, bibliography, index

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Jewelry by Southwest American Indians: Evolving Designs

Nancy Shiffer

The fascinating evolution of jewelry designs by Indian artist of the American Southwest is documented in this exciting new book. Over 100 years of changing economic and cultural influences have been decisive for the designs of this jewelry. Some Traditional-style jewelry continues to be made today as it has been for centuries, while other forms date themselves to narrow ranges when certain materials, techniques, markets, and popularity influenced their designs. The concise yet highly informative text is joined with over 450 captioned, glorious color photographs of this exciting jewelry. From silver, shell, and turquoise to gold, diamonds and other exotic materials, the revolution in Southwest Indian jewelry is visually captured here. Belts, buckles, bracelets, necklaces, men's jewelry, earrings, and pins are chronologically arranged, and the jewelers of most pieces are identified with their tribal affiliations. Galleries, dealers, collectors, and other artists will appreciate this study of stunning designs.

Found at www.amazon.com

A Legacy of Silver and Stone

Jerry & Lois Jacka

This is a beautifully illustrated book on Navajo jewelry. It contains100 splendid color photos by Jerry Jacka and a discussion of the history of the Navajos and their jewelry including the development of techniques, the use of metals and stones and the influence of the trading post written by Lois Jacks.. The book's focus is mainly on the great contemporary jewelry, but is a splendid informal guide to collecting or simply learning more about this fascinating art form.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references4.html

Native American Silver Jewelry: The First Century

Paula A. Baxter

This beautiful book examines the first century of Navajo and Pueblo metal jewelry-making in the American Southwest. Beginning in the late 1860s, the region's native peoples learned metalworking and became accomplished silversmiths. Their work was united with a long-standing native traditon of beads and ornaments made from turquoise and other natural materials. The cross-cultural appeal of this jewelry continued into the mid-1900s, despite competition from tourist jewelry and mass-produced imitations. By the 1950s and 1960s, masters such as innovators Kenneth Begay and Charles Loloma created a legacy of fine art jewelry that is prized today. This development is discussed in the context of social changes and adaptations over the century.

Found at www.amazon.com

The Navajo and Pueblo Silversmiths

John Adair

The book describes many facets involved in the creation of Pueblo Indian
jewelry. It is quite possibly the best and perhaps only scholarly work that explains jewelry making from the Indian perspective. It gives much insight into the conditions on pre-1940 reservations and the trade practices that gave rise to "dead pawn" jewelry.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references4.html

Navajo Jewelry: A Legacy of Silver and Stone

Lois Essary Jacka

A fine, brief history of Navajo iron and silver working with a gallery of 100 splendid color photos by Jerry Jacka. The focus is chiefly on the great contemporary jewelry, with intimate details of techniques.

Found at www.amazon.com

Navajo Silver a Brief History of Navajo Silversmithing

Arthur Woodward

Discusses the influences on Navajo silver forms of European settlers as well as Indians of the east coast, 14 black/white photos and line drawings depict belts, bracelets, conchas, etc, also includes a short list of Caucasian silversmiths who made ornaments for the Indian trade from 1736-1826, bibliography, index

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

North American Indian Jewelry and Adornment: From Prehistory to the Present

Lois Sherr Dubin

Over 1,200 illustrations, approximately 820 in full color, offer a look at Southwestern turquoise jewelry, Plains beadwork, "carved" metal bracelets from the Northwest, quill and moosehair work from the Subarctic, and etched horn jewelry from California. 50 maps.

Found at http://4peaksgallery.com/references4.html

North American Indian Trade Silver

W. H. Carter

A reprint of the Canadian edition, Chain of Friendship by W. H. Carter, this title is revised and edited by Lar Hothem. Most of the original content is retained.

Found at http://www.hothemhouse.com/hothembooks.html

Skystone and Silver the Collectors Book of Southwest Indian Jewelry

Carl Rosnek and Joseph Stacey

166 pages text illus with half-tone photos plus numerous color photos, includes both antique as well as contemporary jewelry, discusses reproductions and fakes with tips on collecting, history, etc, glossary, index.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Southwest Indian Silver from the Doneghy Collection

Louise Lincoln

Released in conjunction with an exhibition entitled "Finished in Beauty: Southwest Indian Silver from the Doneghy Collection", features articles about early Southwest metalwork, the cultural and economic context of Navajo jewelry, the stylistic development of Navajo jewelry and Navajo silver and aesthetics, includes written descriptions of the 874 items that comprised the collection with more than 200 representative examples depicted in black/white and color photos, silver forms include buttons, bags, squash blossom necklaces, conchas, bracelets, rings, najas, earrings, dress ornaments, etc, items date from the 1870's to about 1960, quality black/white photos, glossary, bibliography, values not included

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Southwest Silver Jewelry

Paula A. Baxter

Turquoise Jewelry of the Indians of the Southwest

Edna Mae Bennett

Discusses the use of turquoise in crafting jewelry and other items by the Indians of the American Southwest, the discussion also includes the associated silver work and use of shells, numerous color and black/white photos depict old as well as contemporary items, bibliography, no index.

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

The Turquoise Trail: Native American Jewelry and Culture of the Southwest

Carol Karasik

Culture is the emphasis of this stunning picture book. Foxx's ( Living Maya , Abrams, 1987) exquisite color photographs of Southwestern Indians and their environment are interspersed by a text that links the legends of Mesoamerica to contemporary indigenous beliefs. Specifically, Karasik (editor of The People of the Bat , LJ 6/15/88) relates ancient stories from the peoples of Mexico about the powers and meanings of turquoise. The history of this semiprecious stone is deftly if elliptically told as one theme in an overarching history--an approach that will disappoint those looking mainly for information on the design history of Native American jewelry of the Southwest. Dexter Cirillo's Southwestern Indian Jewelry ( LJ 12/92) offers a practical survey of developments in the craft. Though the text contains a few factual errors (e.g., Mexican Hat is in Utah, not Arizona), this fine introduction to its varying subjects is recommended for general collections.

Found at www.amazon.com

Turquoise Treasures the Splendor of Southwest Indian Art

Jerry D. Jacka, and Spencer Gill

Predominantly gorgeous close-up color photographs of jewelry designed by various SW Indian artists, also photographs of various kinds & colors of turquoise, 12 pages of text discuss historical use of turquoise in jewelry making

Found at http://www.coastside.net/msinfobooks/zamerxjs.html

Turquoise Unearthed: An Illustrated Guide

Joe Dan Lowry

In the American Southwest, turquoise is a highly prized gemstone with great cultural significance. Author Joe Dan Lowry is recognized worldwide as a leading expert on the subject, and Turquoise Unearthed: An Illustrated Guide is the definitive resource for rock hounds and serious collectors alike. Lowry describes the fascinating history of turquoise mining in the American Southwest and reveals the astonishing variety of colors and forms that make this a gemstone like no other. Among Native American peoples of the Southwest, turquoise is especially prized, with blue stones symbolizing "Father Sky" and greener ones evoking "Mother Earth." This lavishly illustrated volume also features some of the finest examples of antique and contemporary Southwest Indian turquoise jewelry. 70 color photographs and illustrations.

Found at www.amazon.com

Websites and Jewelry Sellers

The following links are either informational websites or the website of jewelry sellers that have information about Dine jewelry.

About Indian Jewelry

This is a brief history of Native American Jewelry provided by an online vendor.

http://www.arizoni.com/aboutindianjewelry.htm

The History of Native American Jewelry

This is a wonderful online resource for jewelry, drawing information from several books on the topic of Native American Jewelry. The website is designed for information about Native American products by a collector’s show that buys and sells these products.

http://www.americana.net/jewelry.html

Indigenous Peoples: Navajo Art

Part of the United Nations Cyber School Bus site, this link contains brief information about weaving jewelry an sand painting and provides a couple of links to other indigenous cultural sites.

http://www0.un.org/cyberschoolbus/indigenous/appreciate_focus.asp

Navajo Indian Silversmithing

This website has good content on Navajo Jewelry. The website provides webspace to vendors and auctioneers of Native American products, and information on these products.

http://www.indianvillage.com/stories/Silversmithing.htm

Navajo Links Page by Packrat

This webpage is well maintained and provides extensive links to many different aspects of Navajo culture, including Jewelry and crafts.

http://www.geocities.com/soho/museum/9083/navaho.html

The Navajo Silversmith

This is a short F.A.Q. about Native American Jewelry provided by a jewelry vendor.

http://www.navajosilversmith.com/smith.htm

Native Artists United

This site dedicated to the preservation of Native American culture through the display of artists’ works. This site has a brief history of the tribes, artist biographies, and many wonderful pictures of handmade jewelry.

http://www.nativeartistsunited.org/

Native American Indian Jewelry

This site is developed by a group of Las Vegas vendors of casino memorabilia, Indian jewelry, art, and dolls. It provides much information on the development of Indian Jewelry, turquoise mines in the U.S. , and many useful links to Native American sites.

http://www.lasvegasvegas.com/jewelry/

Mesa Traders

A merchant web site for Indian art, jewelry, clothing, literature and more. They have a broad selection of books available for ordering.

http://mesa-traders.com/books.html